A Leisurely Return from 71°10’21” to Honningsvag via Skarsvag. 28th July.

Back at my Honningsvag seaside residence, found by Brian (my thanks friend), I had just opened my ‘early’ evening beer, a Mack, remember the most northerly brewery on the world in Tromso, ….

Note the nice little touch on the pull ring.

…. when a man carrying a fishing rod walked through my back garden to the sea. For a fleeting moment I thought of offering him my ‘later’ evening beer, thankfully the moment evaporated quickly. Within fifteen minutes he had caught a sizable fish ‘this size’ that didn’t get away. It would have taken him more time to go shopping for it. These waters must be teeming with fish. Yesterday I took a video of hundreds of fish jumping, creating a sound like waves on the shore.

The anticipated feeling of anti climax never arrived. With the weather remaining perfect, beautiful surroundings, reindeer with calves at foot grazing the hills and a sense of achievement, I was feeling good.

Last night whilst waiting patiently for an opportunity to take a photo, a gentleman offered to take my picture beside the Globe. Frank and I immediately fell into conversation and spent the next few hours happily chatting. You really do meet some great people when you travel. Retired early through hard work and intellect, he had ridden his BMW from his home country of Germany.

Having pitched my tent near the north facing cliffs, I returned to the Globe to wait for the midnight sun. As the hour approached those of us who had arrived in plenty of time were edged aside by the professional late comers who have the ability to arrive at the front of any crowd without seemingly moving. Impervious to any protest, they stubbornly remain allowing others of their group to also achieve pole position. Perhaps the fence on the cliff’s edge shouldn’t be do sturdy.

The visitor’s centre at Nordkapp is impressive, providing information on natural history, historical events and a curved screen video of life at Nordkapp through the four seasons.

Part of the display of birds found in the region.

Here is a brief time line of some events:-

1539 – The Swedish priest Olaus Magnus drew a map of northern Europe. He filled in the undiscovered areas with sea monsters attacking ships. Nothing like instilling confidence in sailors.

1553 -The Knyskanes rock was first named North Cape by the English captain and navigator Richard Chancellor, in his search for his route to China.

1664 – Francesco Negri from Ravenna, Italy visits and is subsequently considered the first tourist to the area.

1873 – On 2nd July King Oscar ll of the Norway-Sweden union unveiled the royal monument to indicate the northern most point of the Norwegian kingdom.

1950 – Olav V, beloved king of Norway visited Nordkapp.

1956 – The road to Nordkapp was opened on 30th June. The first car having visited the previous year to start the Cape to Cape race to Cape Town.

1984 – On 7th June the Royal North Cape Club was founded, with the unveiling of the Midnight Sun Road.

The trusting nature of Norwegians is refreshing, cycles, vehicle snow tyres and other items of value left unattended and rightfully they are proud of their honesty. However with hundreds of other tourists around I didn’t feel comfortable leaving my cycle and gear unattended during the 20km walk I’d planned, so rode back to Honningsvag via a detour, to Skarsvag, which is, guess, yes, the most northerly fishing harbour in the world.

My previous less than complementary comments regarding the competency of some RV drivers was borne out when I heard the sound of metal scraping on tarmac as a RV rejoined the road from a layby at the top of the last long and sustained descent back to Honningsvag. I had stopped to check that my load was secure. Something getting caught in the spokes at 60km/h would have consequences. Turning, I saw the RV drive up the hill with it’s rear access ladder dragging on the road, door wide open and items falling from the vehicle. Any following vehicles would have had to negotiate the debris to be able to over take and advise the driver.

After a brief stop to take a photo with a coach party, both the coach and I set off down the hill. An exciting descent would be an understatement, pure enjoyment. Topped by half the passengers waving and clapping as they over took me as the hill ran out onto flat ground. The driver even touched his horn.

Tomorrow will be a chilling out day in Honningsvag, a town I now know well. Then a 4am rise on Monday to catch the 5.45am departing MS Nordkapp to Tromso, stopping at Hammerfest, the world’s most northerly city!

Honningsvag harbour.

The Nordkapp arrives to take me and Hugh to Tromso. I met Hugh from Bristol, UK as we both waited for her.

An expensive but excellent IPA.

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